The Hot Pot Blog

March 2, 2015

Rolls of Film and Day Trips from Milan

Just got my first test roll of film back with my new R4. This camera is rocking my world #film #fujifilm400 #leica #r4 #milano #italy #architecture
My old Minolta, purchased for about $30 in a dark alley of Old Delhi, stopped working soon after we arrived in Milan. Going back to shooting all digital bummed me out way more than I realized it would but, with all of the expenses that come with moving across the world and setting up house in one of the world’s most expensive cities, I didn’t feel like I could justify spending more money on what is, mostly, a hobby for me.

But I’m married to an incredibly kind and thoughtful man. For Christmas he did his homework and went out and bought me a used Leica R4 with a Leica 50mm lens. He knows me well. He didn’t buy me a camera so expensive that I’d demand he take it back to the store and put the money back in our savings account, but the Leica is a big step up from my Minolta and the let’s-keep-it-together-with-duct-tape aesthetic it had going on.

It took almost a month to get the camera fixed up and functioning and a few more weeks to happen upon a little Kodak shop that develops and scans for only €12 a roll. But finally I’m shooting film again and slowly getting the hang of this new camera.
Navigli ektar-1
Will ektar park bench-1
from lightroom-1
from lightroom-2
carnivale and mechanic shop-1

The thing we are coming to love best about Milan is the ability to get out of town and get away so easily.

Even with two kids who are quirky in all the usual toddler ways–and then some–it’s often easier than we realized it could be. We wake up, we make our pancakes, we look up a destination in a book, or on Google. We rush around the house finding jackets, finding pacifiers, taking a casual peek into our backpack diaper bag to make sure there’s at least one diaper in there to justify the label. And then we leave, usually not before 10:30am.

We drive, we get lost, or we take the train. Either way, we look for the mountains on the way out of town. We haven’t tired yet of seeing them in the distance as we leave the smog of Milan behind in our review mirror. It doesn’t take long to get somewhere new and interesting in Northern Italy–it’s rarely more than 90 minutes to get where we’re going.

We don’t make plans or set agendas for these day trips. We try to content ourselves with a walk and a very casual, quick meal. Anything else we can interest/cajole/con our little ones into is a bonus. We are usually home by dinnertime. We could push the kids to stay out longer but most times we don’t. We can get out of town more weekends than not if we don’t make every single trip into a grueling marathon for the kids. We can always go back if there is more we want to see. There always is and we often do.


A few weeks ago, we headed to Lago Maggiore. We were trying to get to Stresa but, owing to my excellent grasp of Google Maps, we ended up somewhere entirely different. We drove through a tiny town, the name of which I honestly don’t remember (though someone on Instagram saw the photo below and says it’s from Laveno-Mombello). It was touristy, there were expensive boats. I ordered something called “polenta e zola” from the only restaurant open at noon, (not necessarily a good thing in Italy) not realizing that zola is blue cheese, and in this case, a slice of it the size of my face.

Lago maggiore #italy #milano #daytripfrommilan #film #leica #fujifilm400

But the memorable part of the trip was not the touristy town where I had rubbery polenta and an astonishingly large portion of blue cheese, where Will skipped rocks into the lake and where we drank macchati and eavesdropped on the cafe’s Chinese owners as they debated painting the cafe a brighter shade of red.

Will ektar maggiore-1

The memorable part was the windy, rocky coastline where we pulled off into the first parking lot we could find and found ourselves surrounded by two dozen scuba divers in thick winter-weather diving suits. The scuba masks scared our kids and they were hungry anyway, but before we had to high-tail it back into town for lunch, I looked down into the water and saw clear to the bottom. Divers used to come to dive down to a rare Bugatti car that a frustrated customs official pushed into the lake in 1936. I don’t know why they dive there now, but if the view underwater is even half as good as the view from above, it must be worth it.
from lightroom-5

Another day, when we were feeling indecisive, we drove to San Pellegrino–yes that San Pellegrino. We drove right past the factory on our way into town, passing giant red trucks heading the opposite direction, all carrying the famous water. We ate at a restaurant called Tirolese and this time, we picked well. The food was good, perhaps touristy still but no less authentic for being so. I tried pizzoccheri and, on a cold day, overlooking the river that fills millions of those green glass bottles across the world, it was filling and wonderful.
San Pellegrino film ektar-1

We walked a short ways up a hiking trail and fulfilled our promise to Will that we’d take him somewhere with enough snow to build a snowman this winter. Our snowman stood only 6 inches tall but Will seemed satisfied. There were so many hiking trails we wished we would have been more warmly dressed for. We will go back though. We hear there’s a great spot on the river too for kids to splash around.

ektar and fuji film-1

San Pellegrino film ektar-3
We’ve been to Bergamo three times now which means I’ve taken enough pictures there now to justify writing an entire blog post about it and hopefully I will. We still haven’t gotten to any of the many art museums and galleries there or even any of the historical sites, but we’re hoping maybe the fourth (or fifth!) trip will be the charm.

This isn’t my vespa:
#cliche but I really can't help myself #bergamo #vespa #italy #film #ektar100 #r4 #leica

One of the trips we took to Bergamo was just me and the kids by ourselves on the train. It went better than I thought it would and gave me some hope that maybe it’s something we can do more often when Will is out of school.

Will and Shiloh bergamo ektar-2

I’ve finally learned how to park our car in our teeny, tiny little box. There are only about 2 inches of clearance on either side of the car and I haven’t driven much in the last seven years so it’s been an intimidating project for me, but I can do it! Now I just have to figure out how to get the kids in and out of the car through the driver’s seat (the parking spot is that tiny) and then I’ll be able to take them out in the car all by myself. Here’s to warming spring weather and more new adventures in the coming weeks!

February 7, 2015

I’m Learning How to Do Italy

Will taking on Navigli #navigli #milano #italy
Five years ago I moved to China after having married into a half-Chinese family and 20 days of intensive Chinese language classes. Three years ago I moved to India after having both studied and lived in the country before.

6 months ago I moved to Italy after…a few dozen childhood meals at an “Italian” restaurant called Grazies in Northern Wisconsin? They were well known for the BBQ chicken quesadilas and “gourmet” Mac n’ Cheese so, yea. There was that.

I did read about Italy, I did log several hundred hours on Duolingo, but never have I landed in a country feeling so unprepared. Italian culture is lively and beautiful but, at least here in the North, it is also somewhat formal and a bit parochial. There are social mores to be observed and rules to be followed. Which is true of every place on the planet; but, for a variety of reasons, daily survival requires a much deeper relationship with the local culture here in Italy than it did in either China or India where there existed all sorts of infrastructure to keep expat communities afloat.

I’ve felt clueless and out of place a million times since we’ve arrived. Six months in, I still feel like I need a ticker celebrating the “number of days we’ve been gaffe-free” like the “number of days we’ve been accident free” signs you sometimes see at construction sites.

I haven’t written much about daily life in Milan mostly because I haven’t felt conversant enough about it yet to comment without errors. I have speak almost no Italian and, especially compared to my friends who’ve been living here for decades or who’ve married Italian men and raise Italian children, I have so much to learn.

But I am learning and with the World Expo in Milano this year and the New York Times ranking Milan as the #1 travel destination for 2015, I’ve been thinking a lot lately about what I would tell a fellow American about Milan and our Italian experiences.

After a loooong slump, I have a slew of blog topics on my brain. I’d like to write about all of the things we like about living in Milan. I’d like to write about when, where, and how to pay for your coffee in a cafe, (because there can never be too much of this sort of information on the internet for people like me) and what Italian babies eat (lots of parmigiano-reggiano) and the neighborhood bars, and where to find the best bread and the best pasta and how the Milanese manage to stay so thin eating brioche for breakfast and 2 scoops of gelato for an afternoon snack (actually, I don’t know the answer to this one but I think it’s an insane amount of housework and a lot of walking in heels).

Is there anything I’m missing? Any other topics you’d like to hear about?

January 8, 2015


Shiloh's first birthday-6

Shiloh turned 1 years old on Tuesday, an Italian holiday by happy coincidence.  We celebrated quietly.  Shiloh opened a few presents (ok, fine, Will opened a few presents) we made pancakes, and played.  We went out for some pizza and followed it up with what was probably Shiloh’s favorite moment of the day: her first solo cup of (yogurt) gelato.  We walked, we played some more.  Shiloh demolished a mini carrot cake after dinner and then it was off to bath and bed.

Shiloh's first birthday-12

And in between we nursed and cuddled and I stared into her deep brown eyes a thousand times, willing myself to understand that my baby is hurtling towards toddlerhood faster than seems possible.

As much as I love throwing parties and entertaining, for the most important days we celebrate, I much prefer to spend the time quietly with our family, wallowing in nostalgia and sentimentality the way I do on this blog instead of rushing around the way I usually do in real life.

So, Shiloh, she is one.  She is feisty and determined and fast. She points at everything, wanting words for what she is looking at. She is curious and head-strong and cries if we don’t let her touch the leaves on trees or the Christmas lights on the sides of buildings.  For Shiloh there are no obstacles, only benches, boxes and challenges to be surmounted. She always, usually very quietly, finds her way.

She is so on-the-go, so independent, so easy-going in so many ways that sometimes I forget that she is still so very little–which in turn makes me treasure those moments when she does let me baby her even more. Those moments when she reaches up to be held, when she naps on my chest. When she covers my face in open-mouth kisses and force-feeds me orange slices covered in peanut butter. She still sleeps in our bed and spends hours attached to my hip. I know these days of babyhood are waning now and I miss them already even as I live them. She will grow up to be such an amazing and strong and fearless woman but for always she will be my baby.

Shiloh Jan 9 2014-1
Shiloh in grey-4
Shiloh and NaiNai-1
Chris and Shiloh-3
Shiloh in poofy dress first time-3
Shiloh St Patrick's Day-12
made in india modeling made in india-2
Shiloh and NaiNai Portra 400-1
Shiloh and NaiNai Portra 400-2
Shiloh with papa etc portra 400-6
Shiloh in Varrena-6
Shiloh 6.5 months-7Shiloh plaid shirt black adn white 8 months old sept 2014-5
Shiloh love-1
Shiloh at Bellagio and Varenna-1
Shiloh in Pumpkin outfit-7
Shiloh Will Mommy-3
Shiloh 11 months-9
Shiloh Christmas-1-3
#rainbows: always in style #shiloh #sunset
My girl getting in touch with her heritage #shiloh
She can't walk unassisted yet bit she already knows how to commandeer her gege's scooter #shiloh
Paintbrushes #pigtails #shiloh
Shiloh on floor in panda onesie-3
Mamma and Shiloh-1
(First) birthday suit #shiloh

December 31, 2014

Merry Christmas Dreams

Christmas 2014 non kid photos-3

That’s what Will has been saying to all of us lately, a seasonal adaptation of the usual “sweet dreams” nighttime routine.

Christmas 2014 non kid photos-6

And already, Christmas feels a little like a dream. I both cannot fathom that it is already New Year’s Eve and at the same time, I’m itching to tear down our Christmas tree already like it’s actually a vector for the winter flu. Which, who knows, it could be. I’m told by our pediatrician that the 104 degree “virus” I called her about the week before Christmas was probably the flu, followed by complications thereof for Boxing Day, and so on and so forth until, fast forward to New Year’s Eve, it’s antibiotic cocktails for everyone, yay.

So yes, Christmas came and went in a haze of present-wrapping, cookie-delivering, temperature-taking, tylenol-administering, sheet-washing, gift-giving and general mayhem. But the mayhem makes the magic doesn’t it? Because it takes a hell of a lot of effort for five adults to stay civil and sane while cooped up in a not-huge apartment with two sick kids and so those moments when everyone is feeling the joy all at the same for all the same reasons–those moments really make it all worth it. They are pure magic.

Shiloh Christmas-2

Will and Shiloh with Papa at Christmas Time-2
This was the first Christmas Will has really understood and anticipated and Shiloh’s first Christmas ever.

I nearly cried watching Chris’ Dad read The Polar Express to Will for the first time (my italicizing button is just not working, sorry!).

And we logged many hours playing “tree football,” a game Will invented in which all of the adults in the room take turns tossing a soft, stuffed Christmas tree at him.

Shiloh and Will both obsessed over the Christmas tree, attempting to eat redecorating the tree for days on end.

Some last minute redecorating for Santa. Someone was really excited tonight. #tistheseason #christmas2014

Babies in Christmas pjs playing with strands of Christmas lights, because, you kind of have to.title=”Shiloh setting up christmas tree-3 by Dani, on Flickr”>Shiloh setting up christmas tree-3

Ditto with the Santa hat shtick.
Shiloh in santa hat-4

Will decorated his first plate of Christmas cookies for Santa this year with both sets of grandparents (one set on Skype) oohing and ahhing over his careful work with the icing. He also brought home a slew of Christmas crafts from school that I’m pretty sure will live among our Christmas decorations for years to come.
Will's Christmas crafts-1
On Christmas Eve Chris spent 3 hours assembling the play kitchen that Santa brought, but I think he’ll agree with me that the effort has been totally worth the hours the kids have logged already whipping up “breakfast” and handling the mini saute pan like a pro (Will) and flinging the entire contents of the pretend refrigerator on the floor over and over again (Shiloh). Having grown-up thus far with old-fashioned GSO refrigerators, Will does not believe that an in-fridge water dispenser could possibly be a real thing. He says it’s like the juice-pressers at the cafe bars we go to, it’s for making “spremunta”. He answers the kitchen phone saying “Top Chef here, what do you want?”
Rocking the sauté pan in the new kitchen but I was really floored when he "baked" me a cake while reciting a totally plausible cake recipe. #christmas2014 #masterchefjunior #toobadheeatsnothingbutcheerios

We had roast beef, latkes and gingerbread for Christmas Eve dinner and homemade Chinese dumplings for Christmas Day. And all of the leftovers from my “cookie diplomacy” efforts with the neighbors. We made Panettone french-toast (Panettone being a Milanese invention it gets passed around like, well, like fruitcake, during the holidays here) and the kids saw their first snow fall. Granted, they were both sick and we didn’t so much play in it as tiredly trudge through it on a particularly ill-timed run to the grocery store but in any case, snow! It didn’t stick but it still felt pretty magical.
Snow!!  The kids' first snow ever
Will Christmas 2014-1
Will and Shiloh Christmas 2014-2
Will and Shiloh with Papa at Christmas Time-1

And then, suddenly, Christmas was over. Chris’ family was packing their bags for their return flight, the doctor’s office was open again, prescriptions got filled and after a particularly grueling night with the sick, wee ones, we walked into our living room yesterday morning dazed and confused. Where was the houseful of people who needed little more than coffee and oatmeal and fresh towels and who gave so much in the way of stories and games and hugs and adoration? While Chris took the kids to the park yesterday afternoon, I cleaned the house and the silence sounded so very loud.
This morning, for the first time in nearly two months, there were no guests to prepare for, no cookies to be baked, floors to clean, parties to plan for. So we drove to Parma. But the real photos from that will have to wait for another day. I’ve got syringes full of antibiotics to administer and a hot New Year’s Eve date sitting on the couch next to me waiting for me to quit typing and start opening a bottle of wine instead.
No parking #parma #roadtrip #italy

Happy New Year!

December 20, 2014


trio of christmas photosOh where to start.

NaiNai came to visit. It was wonderful, amazing really. Where she gets all of her energy I don’t know.

5 days later, we celebrated Thanksgiving. Twice. Our little Euro kitchen produced 49 biscuits, 18 Parker House rolls, 4 pies, 1 turkey, 2 batches of life-changing spicy hazelnut sweet potatoes, green beans, truffle-spiked mushrooms, lots and lots of salad and a batch of cinnamon rolls. We celebrated on Thursday with some American colleagues and again on the following Sunday with the best group of Brits, Irish, New Zealanders, Italians and Germans I could have asked for. And we felt thankful. Really thankful.

36 hours and many dishes later, friends from Delhi came to visit for a week, Will and his best buddy reunited. We ate too much gelato, danced to “Pani Pani” and oohed and ahhed over every single Christmas tree between here and Lake Como. Shiloh came down with a massive ear infection and cut a tooth in the same week. So, you know, we were well-rested the whole time.

We’ve collected leaves and fed ducks in the park, played, written letters to Santa, water-colored, flooded bathrooms, scrubbed kitchen floors, chased Shiloh away from Christmas tree lights approximately 546 times, paid more than I ever thought possible for a 4 foot tall Christmas tree,.  We’ve wrapped presents, made gumbo, fudge, gingerbread and at least 6 batches of Christmas cookies. We’ve hosted dinner dates, hosted playdates, watched Will decorate his first real, live Christmas tree, and laughed at Shiloh and Will wrestling in their Christmas pajamas. Will has sung Jingle Bells and Oh Christmas Tree for us approximately 326 times. We’ve walked like a gajillion miles. We’ve been introduced to the first version of eggnog we actually like (it’s Panamanian). We finally got our car and I’ve driven it exactly once (and was cut off by a Lamborghini for the first time in my life while doing so).

Shiloh stands up on her own and cruises around holding onto me with just one finger. Will knows how to ride a scooter and crack the eggs for our traditional weekend pancake batter. The stocking are hung, there are fresh pine boughs and candles all over our living room. Chris’ family arrived yesterday for the holidays which obviously coincided with both kids running 104 degree fevers for three days straight and Shiloh cutting another tooth. In theory, I’ll have the Christmas shopping for the family, the cousins, the neighbors, the portanaio, the school, the office, etc, etc done by..the 25th? Screw Christmas cards this year. We’re aiming for St. Patrick’s Day instead.

I am exhausted. My kids aren’t nappers, not even when they are really sick so there’s not a lot of downtime in our days. I thought by now, I’d have dusted off my nascent photography business or maybe even hired a babysitter. I thought by now I’d be speaking Italian. Instead, most days, I’m in the weeds, doing battle with dirty diapers and play-dough, hauling 30 pounds of groceries and 50 pounds of children from our neighborhood market upstairs to our kitchen counter.

I’m often surrounded by fellow stay-at-home mothers who don’t spend as much time with their children as I do, they have babysitters and nannies and time on the weekends that they spend away from their husbands and children.  And while I try to take a very “to each her own” approach to other people’s parenting, there are plenty of days when I wonder if I should be more like these other mothers. Will my children really be better people for me being with them every single moment of their lives?

After all, my mother worked for all but two years of my childhood. I know for a fact my babysitters weren’t always the greatest.  And still, my mother and I are incredibly close and always have been. Do my kids really need as much of me as I give them? Are they really going to benefit from all of the hours I’m here when I could be working or at least sneaking out to get a decent haircut instead of hacking away at my split ends in front of our bathroom mirror?

Definitely I need some balance. I miss working, I miss sleeping, I will someday hire a babysitter. I will someday go back to an office. I will do so many of the things that I cannot fathom getting time or head space to do right now.

But today I found a battered Thomas the Train paperback that Will used to make me read to him first thing in the morning, every single morning in Delhi. At the time, it sometimes felt like torture as I’d read and dream I was eating breakfast instead. Now I’m lucky if I get a minute of morning snuggles from my energetic little boy.

And I’m beginning to realize that so much of the time I spend with them, the hugs and kisses and snuggles I give are not really for them, they are for me and for the future me who will long for these days when every hurt can be cured with a kiss and every problem solved with a hug. I will long for these days when the sweetness of our breakfast conversations fuel me through the morning and the bedtime snuggles cap off our days more perfectly than even the best glass of Italian Barolo. These kids, they really do grow up so astonishingly fast.

I’ve been an absentee blogger these past few weeks obviously, but I do miss it and I think I’ll be around this space with hopefully a more functional website and more frequent posts in the new year.  Until then, if I don’t make it back onto the site before the end of the year, Merry Everything and Happy New Year.

Shiloh 11 months-6

November 11, 2014

Sheep, Donkeys, Truffles, Mountains…and puke

sunset and animals and scenery Monta-2

As much as I tried to think about some nugget of deeper meaning or insight to tie into this post, really the only thought sprung to my mind was: we did it, we clucking did it (only I didn’t say clucking).


We made it to the famous Alba truffle festival, we went “hiking,” we stayed at an agroturismo and we did it all in one weekend with a puking toddler and an insomniac baby.

And as Chris and I high-fived each other over the crying babies while tossing back a glass of Barolo less for the experience and more to get rid of it before Shiloh could grab the glass, I realized that our pre-kid selves might have been horrified.

at the truffle fest-1

Pre-kids I wouldn’t have found myself sleeping in the crack between two lumpy twin mattresses on a sofa bed sandwiched by two restless children. The sheets would not have been covered in toddler puke. We would not all have woken up at 4am for a puke-necessitated shower. We would have sipped coffee leisurely the next morning at a reasonable hour rather than from a dripping mug as we ran around saying good morning to various farm animals.

sunset and animals and scenery Monta-12
Will and Daddy Monta-6
sunset and animals and scenery Monta-9

We would have eaten at fancy restaurants instead of making pasta on a cook stove in our bedroom two nights in a row. I’d like to think I would have worn something to the Alba truffle festival other than muddy running shoes and corduroys soaked from a backseat diaper change gone horribly wrong. Lunch would not have been a nutella crepe and half a rotisserie chicken eaten straight from the bag the chicken seller gave it to me in in–or maybe it would have–you really never know.

We would have actually gotten out of the car in the little town of Neive instead of lying through our teeth that this side trip was actually on the way home to Milan. We would have spent hours at the truffle fest instead of just minutes, trying wine and truffle-covered everything. We would have hiked for far more than 1500 meters before realizing we really weren’t up for carrying two kids down a trail into “the valley of death” on 4 hours of sleep. We might have visited a winery or two or three.

Day 1 on way to Monta-10

Chris would have driven like an Italian maniac through the gorgeous countryside instead of at less than 20 miles per hour while I consoled our nauseous toddler in his carseat.

Day 1 on way to Monta-2

sunset and animals and scenery Monta-20
Anyways. The point is, this was not a trip of luxury and leisure, but we made it all happen anyway and our kids had fun and we had fun. And it could have been so much more of a trip had we done it pre-kids but I know for certain that it would have also been so very much less.

We wouldn’t have gotten to hear Will say good morning to the sheep, we wouldn’t have heard him say “Bye-bye cows, we have to go now!” I wouldn’t have watched Chris carry our kids through a vineyard at sunset or watched Will and Chris share wine grapes straight off the vine. I wouldn’t have gotten to share one of the most gorgeous vistas I’ve ever seen with my little girl whispering in her ear that, as soon as she can walk, we’ll take her hiking for real.

sunset and animals and scenery Monta-3
Will and Daddy Monta-14

Will and Daddy Monta-7
Shiloh Will Mommy-2-2

Will and Daddy Monta-2
We wouldn’t have gotten to watch Will smack his lips and smile after trying fresh milk straight from the farm for the very first time. We wouldn’t have seen Shiloh devour as much of the farm’s sheep’s milk pecorino as I’d let her have. And those Lightning McQueen napkins placed especially on the table just for us…they wouldn’t have meant a thing.

sunset and animals and scenery Monta-18
Will and Daddy sunset Monta-2

Day 1 on way to Monta-12

sunset and animals and scenery Monta-13

Shiloh and Daddy Monta-4

sunset and animals and scenery Monta-1

November 4, 2014


navigli and arco della pace-1

We’re entering a new chapter in Milan. There are orphan socks resting on a table in the corner of our living room (clean ones).

They are the kind of socks that will never find their mates, the kind that I’ll move to another room when company comes over and then move back again and then finally throw out two years from now when I realize that the baby who once wore the sock now runs around on feet twice as big as they were when the sock still fit.

They are the kind of socks that you really only see when home still doesn’t feel like home, when every single object–from socks to light fixtures–is noticeable, enhancing or detracting from some theoretical concept of what a nice-looking home should look like.

Until one day you don’t really see those things anymore. Until one day you realize there’s a pile of socks and you have no idea how long it’s been there but it’s comforting in a way to know that you didn’t see it, that the rooms of your new home are no longer an interior design challenge but instead finally just a backdrop to the living that happens there.

Will and Shiloh living room-1

navigli and arco della pace-15

This would be a great segue to a tour of our apartment but, for all my orphan socks, our couch has yet to arrive from the factory and half of Will’s nightstand is still sitting in Chris’ office waiting for us to get our car so we can schlep it home. We’re still waiting for half the pictures to be hung and there are stripes of two different orange paint colors behind a door in the entryway that may or may not get painted over before we leave Milan. There’s duct tape covering a nasty bit of water damage that I swore I’d make “them” repair but have now given up on and we have some truly terrible Ikea lamps scattered across the house. Someday I’ll post pictures, in theory before we leave.

But in spite of or perhaps because of all these nagging little to-do’s, this house finally feels like home.

navigli and arco della pace-10(not our house)

Home never feels homier than when you unlock the front door after having spent half the day out somewhere else.  We aren’t ringleaders here by any stretch, but we finally have play dates and playgroups and trade text messages again with people who aren’t related to us.

It was hard going for awhile. For the past four years I’ve spent most of my time with other serial, mostly American, expats. In the past, conversations were easy, if a bit superficial. We could always fall back on bidding, next post, last post and how hard it is to get kids sleeping normally again after a 24 hour journey back to the States.

Milan is a whole different universe for us, full of European bankers and finance people– most of whom operate far above our income bracket. It seems that for half of the expat moms here, Milan is a one-off adventure, something for the scrapbooks. After their time is over in Italy, they’ll simply go back to their old lives, old house, old friends as if they never left. The other half of the people I meet are women who’ve married Italian men, speak fluent Italian and have lived in Italy for 10 or more years. Home for them, from now on, will always be somewhere in Italy and that’s a very different kind of expat experience.

For the first time since we’ve been overseas, we are the odd ones out, with a lifestyle people find curious but not enviable in the slightest. I’ve met only a few people who’ve ever had to move to a completely foreign country with young kids–much less who’ve had to do it over and over again every few years. It took me three months to meet another American here outside our tiny Consulate community and when we did meet it felt stranger than I had thought it could.

(A mostly unrelated but necessary aside here: the other day Will asked if he could have “uno (one) dosa (Indian snack) for dinner (aka lunch but a term he picked up at his British preschool) when his NaiNai (Chinese for paternal grandmother) comes to visit.” It’s hard to imagine a more perfectly expressed mash-up of his worlds than that)

I’ve never been very good at small talk and, amongst a crowd of Europeans and Australians, my usual foreign service-related conversational crutches don’t do me much good.

But a friend of mine from Delhi and I have a theory. We’ve found that, amongst expats, the people you get along with most easily on the first meeting always end up to be casual acquaintances at best. It’s the people with whom it’s not so easy, the people you have to work the hardest to get to know–those are the people who end up being the closest friends.

I hope our theory is correct because we’ve been working pretty damn doggedly here at making connections over the past few months. And if our theory is at all correct, we  hopefully have some pretty great friendships in the making here Milan.

Last weekend I finally hit a stay-at-home-Mama wall in which I was so desperate to drink a cup of coffee sitting down and go to the market without balancing both babies and bags of groceries in my arms that I finally left the kids with Chris for a few hours and took a break. I hopped on the tram down to Navigli, took some pictures, sat in a hipster cafe that played an old Tracy Chapman album on repeat and went to a bustling market where I was free to buy several kilos of fruit and bread and nuts without having to wonder how I was going to get home with both kids and my produce intact. My film camera broke right before I left the house but that hardly took away from the glory of simply wandering quiet city streets alone with my thoughts. The next day a new friend texted to see if I wanted to go for a quick run around the park together. All in all it was one of the best 48 hours I’ve had yet in Milan.

navigli and arco della pace-9
navigli and arco della pace-14

navigli and arco della pace-3

Oh and Halloween. It wasn’t a huge party but maybe next year. I baked a cake for a party at the marine house that we ended up not getting to attend. We gave out cupcakes to the neighbor kids when they came around dressed in witch costumes and did some important diplomacy work in teaching the phrase “trick or treat.” Chris and I stayed up late peeling 60 clementines to serve as “pumpkins” at Will’s school and Shiloh’s playgroup. Will was predictably anti-Halloween and never even put on his costume, but he was thrilled to eat pumpkin pancakes and “traffic cone candy” (candy corns) with his yogurt for breakfast. Shiloh–being too young to protest–wore her pumpkin costume around town all day. People really like babies here but they like babies in costume even better I think.

Buongiorno #milano!  There is a baby pumpkin on the loose (happy #Halloween )

October 24, 2014

Father Gilsdorf

Father Gilsdorf, this is the only essay I’ve ever turned in late and the only time it really mattered. It took me a long time to figure the assignment out but I think I get it now. Thank you for everything.

Father Gilsdorf was legendary long before I was old enough to sit in his class. At 79 years old, he ran 3 miles every morning rain or shine, published books of poetry every few years and opened every September with a oft-repeated yet still riveting lecture comparing ancient Greeks worshipping Dionysus to modern day high schoolers worshipping the god of bud.

Every ten days he assigned a piece of classic literature and an accompanying essay on the topic. Father Gilsdorf claimed to give only a few A grades every year. Every two weeks, like clockwork, I’d breakdown at 2am in a fit of feverish writer’s block the night before our papers came due.

But I loved that class. I poured everything into those papers and practically memorized the comments that came back in perfect red script on our graded essays. One day in May I stopped by after school to pick up our latest essay and he asked me what I wanted to do when I grew up.

I told him gravely that I thought I might want to be a writer and his reaction will stay with me for the rest of my life.

He laughed– not unkindly but in that way adults sometimes laugh at kids when they’ve said something unintentionally funny.

Writing isn’t a job, he said. Writing is something you do because you can’t help it, but it’s not a job. You need to go out and find a real job and then make time after work to write.

I walked out of the classroom stunned. I don’t remember a single thing he said to me after that for the rest of the school year. In my tightly clenched fist I held an A+ essay that felt suddenly irrelevant. If sitting around all day writing essays wasn’t a valid option for future employment, I had no clue what I was supposed to do with my life. I must have still been in a daze when we rounded up everyone’s college plans for the school newspaper later that week. Instead of journalism or creative writing, I put down pre-med.

I never took a single pre-med class in college, but, with Father Gilsdorf’s words still ringing in my head, I never took a single writing or composition class either.

In the last decade, I’ve thought back on that moment countless times. Sometimes, reading critically-acclaimed novels by writers my age, I’ve resented Father Gilsdorf’s advice. Sometimes, reading about the death of print and newspapers going out of business, I’ve felt grateful for it.

Then, last Tuesday, as I put away my computer for the night, Father Gilsdorf’s words flew inexplicably into my head once again and I realized, startled, that his advice had turned out to be one of the best things that could have ever happened to me.

In telling me I couldn’t be a writer when I “grew up,” Father Gilsdorf had given me his blessing to go do everything else instead, to travel the world, become a mother and take any job I’ve ever wanted. He never told me to give up writing, but, ten years later, he is the reason that I have a life full of characters and situations and experiences worth writing about.

It was Tuesday night in Italy, Tuesday midday in America, as I turned this new insight over and over in my head, feeling renewed and grateful for the upteenth time for every comment, every bit of guidance I ever received from Father Gilsdorf. I realized that, all these years later, I’m doing exactly what Father Gilsdorf had intended: writing because I can’t help it, late at night, after I’ve taken care of the people and obligations and challenges that feed my fiction now with a depth I wouldn’t have been able to muster up before.

Sleepily I wondered whether Father Gilsdorf was still teaching, what he was up to. Thank you Father Gilsdorf, I thought to myself as I put away my computer and crawled into bed that night. I get it now.

The next morning I woke up to a flurry of eulogies on Facebook. Father Gilsdorf had just passed away.


October 16, 2014

The Apple Pies That We Baked

Mini apple hand pies and my favorite picture book for the fall (The Apple Pie That PaPa Baked). After four years without fall, we are making up for lost time. #applepie #kidscancook #expatlife #fall #autunno

It’s officially fall here, we cross a piazza shrouded in mist every morning on our way to preschool, a castle dark and moody looms in the distance.

Nothing scream medieval quite like a castle shrouded in mist #milano #italy #castle #autunno #fall

The foliage here is not the brilliant riot of red and orange we used to revel in back home, but between the gloomy skies and piles of chestnuts and apples overflowing their bins at our neighborhood Monday market, everything feels wonderfully fall-ish to me.

Because Shiloh wasn't going to wait around long enough for me to spell "autunno" #fall #leaves #italy  #autunno

Oh #italy

Yesterday we had a few new friends over to bake mini apple hand pies and read one of my favorite books for the fall. I’m not usually one for tutorials and kid crafts, Lord knows I leave as many of those things up to Will’s preschool teachers as I can; but since our set up yesterday worked so well for even the 16-month-olds among us (no mess, when does that EVER happen?), I thought I’d share briefly how we do.

Were I more experienced with this Pinterest-y sort of thing, I probably would have taken step-by-step photos of the process but since it only occurred to me after the fact that this might have been the most successful kids’ activity I’ve pulled off yet, we’re going to have to rely on the strength of my prose here.

I made a couple batches of pie dough a few days before everyone came over (loads of European butter, a touch of whole wheat flour for some nutty flavor, all done in a food processor for minimal effort).

On the day of, I rolled out the dough about 5mm thick and stamped out disks with a coffee mug then I put them back in the fridge between layers of floured wax paper until everyone arrived. I broke down three fuji apples into a finer dice than you’d use for a full-sized pie (maybe 1 or 2cm pieces?) and tossed them with a few tablespoons each of lemon juice and flour as well as about a teaspoon of Vietnamese cinnamon and about 1/3 cup demerara sugar and a tiny pinch of sea salt. If you have the time, let this mix macerate and then drain and simmer the resulting liquid for an addicting sauce to top your pies with. If no time, just leave the apple pieces in their juices in the fridge until everyone arrives.

(Also to note: if I was doing this anywhere else in the world I’d be using whatever tasteless butter, sugar and cinnamon possible to find on the local market, but since we are here in Italy…)

When the kids are ready, put out:
your tray of pre-stamped dough discs,
a small bowl with either 1 egg (beaten lightly) or water in it to “glue” your pies (egg gives more sheen, water is a nice alternative for kids inclined to taste-test the raw egg wash),
your bowl of diced apples
a fork
a baking sheet lined with parchment paper

Let the kids brush one dough disc with egg or water and then spoon a tablespoon or 2 of the dice apple mixture on top. Cover with a second dough disk and let the kids pinch or crimp the edges together with either their hands or a fork. Brush the top with egg wash and poke a few holes to let the steam escape. Bake at 350F/175C for about 30 minutes or until the tops brown lightly.

Devour while reading The Apple Pie That Papa Baked with adorable children in your lap or, you know, at the kitchen table with the other adults while the kids run wildly around the house ignoring the finished pies and pretending to be airplanes instead.

Afterwards hopefully the kids will look like this:

Sick babes in paradise (and the first time both have napped in over a month)

And you will get to sit down and relax with something like this:

Our mail finally made it here. Leave it to @saveurmag to make me homesick for Blue Ridge Mountain food while living in #italy

P.S. I’m slowly getting used to European playdate hours. Whereas in Delhi and, I believe, America, everyone hung out from about 3-5 here it’s more like 4:30-7pm. Culture shock…

September 28, 2014

Bellagio and babyhood

Shiloh love-1

Will starts school this week, Shiloh is crawling everywhere now and it’s finally occurred to me that, sooner than I may be ready for it, there will come a time when I’m not in a constant exhausted state of childcare, unpacking and settling in…for likely no more than a year before it’s time to pack up and move to a new country, but still. For the first time in nearly four years I can imagine a day in which I spend more time working for a paycheck than changing diapers or kneeling in a pile duplos. I’m terrified. I’m exhilarated. I’m terrified.

Will at Bellagio and Varenna-6

I breathe in Shiloh’s babyness and kiss her chubby cheeks a hundred times a day. I scoop Will into hugs as he crosses the room to pour a “pile of Cheerios” for himself. On week days, for now, we are a merry band of three doing everything together from folding laundry to buying paint to exploring the Duomo in the center of town. It’s thrilling, it’s maddening, it’s all-consuming.

We played a game today in which Will tried to run away before I could take a picture of him. I think I won this round #toddlers
As long as there is a tram ride involved, this kid will go with me anywhere #milano #duomo
Shiloh looking up-1
Belaggio and Varenna-2

It all leaves scant room for wondering what I’ll ultimately do with my life when the kids go off to elementary school, for wondering how or when I’ll go back to work before they get to elementary school, for wondering how I’ll make money, whether anyone will ever hire me or what kind of work I’d even like them to hire me for.

Back in Delhi a few months ago I had a conversation with a good friend who, unlike us, employed a nanny to tag-team her daughter’s care during the day and take her to a few nanny-led playdates every week. The reasons why my friend has a nanny and we didn’t are complicated and myriad I think but I’ll never forget the look of deep love mixed with fear in her eyes the day she said to me “I’m afraid of being with her too much, being too attached. If I am, when she leaves for school, I’ll be left with nothing. She will break my heart.”

I think back on the vulnerability in her words nearly everyday lately. My kids are still so all-consuming, so needy but someday, if I’m doing my job at all right, they won’t be. And I will miss these days of snuggles and struggles, of having my day job and the most important job of my life be one in the same.

I’m thinking too much, brainstorming too little, fruitlessly whiling away minutes and hours of those precious hours after they fall asleep for the night. I want to start a small business, write and photograph. I want to clean my house and throw a kick-ass Halloween party and pretend that I can live without professional fulfillment or a paycheck indefinitely. More than anything I want to bottle up the smell of sleeping Shiloh, peals of Will’s laughter, the scheming looks in their eyes when they play together. Because in a few years they won’t need me hovering around all day, but I will still need them.

Bellagio #lakecomo #italy
Enough thinking for tonight. We took the kids to Bellagio yesterday. We went through multiple wardrobe changes, there was a 12-wipe diaper change on the floor of a men’s restroom, I made Chris bring me the smallest styrofoam cup of espresso I’ve ever seen when Will refused to let us leave the train station for fear of missing the train (not due into the station for over an hour).

It's a common misconception that one can't get a coffee "to go " in Italy. In fact, you can but it's going to be the cutest, tiniest styrofoam cup you've ever seen. #portavia #italy

The gelato vendor made this "per la bella piccolina" then hugged her. I didn't have the heart to tell him she's still a little young for a double scoop of gelato. #shiloh
Shiloh at Bellagio and Varenna-2

Will made out with two lollipops from strangers, the guy at the gelato shop gave our “bella piccolina” a hug and a preciously-decorated cup of gelato. Will got to throw rocks into the lake. Shiloh ate a lot of pizza. The ferry ride was a hit. If you are a retiree looking to add to your scarf and tiny glassware collection in a beautiful place, it is the perfect place for you. As for us, we couldn’t take our eyes off the lake.

Belaggio and Varenna-9
Seagull #lakecomo #italy

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